Christmas at Portmeirion
With Morgan in Canada last year, Christmas at home for Anna and me was something of a non-event. We still had presents around the tree, Christmas dinner with all the trimmings, and even stockings. There was the usual snooze in the afternoon and some corny Christmas films. But with just the two of us, it felt like a lot of work for very little reward. The ‘fun’ bits didn’t really last long.
So, with Morgan still in Canada, we decided to treat ourselves to Christmas at Portmeirion this year. We booked it in June and the plan was to arrive on Christmas Eve, stay in the iconic village, and be wined and dined for several days. No hectic planning or grocery shopping beforehand, no cooking, no cleaning—just top-quality food and time to relax, all against the stunning backdrop of North Wales.
Of course, Morgan threw a minor spanner in the works by coming home early, meaning he’d be here for Christmas after all. By then, we’d already booked and paid, so there was no going back. He’s an adult, so although we felt a little guilty about leaving him home alone, it didn’t last long—especially once he arranged to spend Christmas Day with a friend. With that settled, the excitement mounted as Christmas approached.
Christmas Eve: Arrival at Portmeirion
We bid farewell to Morgan and set off for Portmeirion on Christmas Eve. With clothes for dinners, a gala ball, Christmas jumpers, chill-out outfits, and bags full of presents, the car was packed. It’s less than a 90-minute drive for us, so we arrived quickly.
Portmeirion is an Italianate village built and designed essentially as a series of follies by architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975. It is now owned by a charitable trust and operated as a tourist attraction. It has served as the location for numerous films and television shows, most famously the 1960s television show The Prisoner.
Many of the buildings within the village are listed by Cadw, for their architectural and historical importance, and the gardens are listed too. This included the room we were staying in which was in the Bridge House. It was perfect for us at the top of the village with amazing views out over the estuary.
Today, the village was shrouded in mist, giving it an atmospheric, almost magical quality. After checking in, we were shown to our room in the Bridge House at the top of the village, which had stunning views over the estuary—although the mist obscured them that day.
We began as we meant to go on with afternoon tea at the hotel. It was a buffet with sandwiches, sausage rolls, and an array of cakes, all served on the famous Portmeirion crockery. The hotel was tastefully decorated with Christmas trees and garlands, adding to the festive spirit.
After tea, we wandered through the village, visiting the shops before they closed for Christmas, and then returned to our room to relax. Not for long, though, as dinner awaited at Castell Deudraeth.
Castell Deudraeth: Dinner in Style
Castell Deudraeth is an 18th-century manor house built on the site of a former 12th-century castle. Bought by Sir Clough William-Ellis it is now part of the Port Meirion estate and operates as a four-star luxury hotel. We chose to dine there that evening to mix things up and not eat at the main village hotel every day. The starters were particularly memorable—flavorful and beautifully presented.
After dinner, we strolled back to our room, where we found a lovely welcome pack: miniatures of gin, whisky, vodka, and rum, mixers, chocolate-covered orange peel, and a Portmeirion edition of the Monopoly board game. The room wasn’t decorated for Christmas though, so there was no tree for our presents, but that didn’t dampen the festive mood as we were sure Santa would still visit!
Christmas Day: Presents, Walks, and Feasting
Christmas morning began with stockings for Anna and me. After a coffee in our room, we abandoned our plan to open presents after breakfast and dove straight in. We’d been conservative with gifts since the Portmeirion trip was our main treat, but there were still plenty of surprises, including a ‘nose scarf’ from Anna to keep my nose warm in my tent. Of course, there was also lots of chocolate!
Breakfast at the hotel was a feast: Eggs Benedict for me, pancakes for Anna, plus cereals, fruit, pastries, and toast. Suitably stuffed, we set off for a walk through the village gardens, woodlands, and down to the beach. The mist persisted, but the scenery was still enchanting.
Christmas dinner was a highlight. We had several options from the menu and, after some indulgent starters, both chose turkey with all the trimmings. The food was delicious and plentiful—so much so that we barely managed dessert but couldn’t resist finishing off tiramisu soufflés. Coffee and mince pies rounded things off before we returned to our room for a much-needed snooze. Later, we went back for a buffet dinner, though we were far more restrained this time.
Boxing Day: Blue Skies and a Gala Dinner
Boxing Day began with another hearty breakfast, followed by a longer walk along the Wales Coast Path towards Porthmadog. The mist had finally lifted, revealing blue skies and spectacular views. The muddy fields didn’t deter us, and it felt good to stretch our legs properly.
The evening was the highlight of our stay: a gourmet tasting menu gala dinner. Anna and I had new outfits for the occasion—a sharp suit for me (though I didn’t quite dare the velvet smoking jacket and bowtie) and a stunning navy blue dress for Anna. Despite the formal dress, the atmosphere was relaxed. We were seated at communal tables and spent hours chatting with fellow diners as we worked our way through multiple courses. Opinions were divided on some dishes, but everyone had their favorites.
Many of the guests were regular visitors, with some returning every Christmas and others visiting several times a year—a testament to Portmeirion’s charm. The staff, though working through their own Christmas, were fantastic, ensuring everyone was well-fed, comfortable, and happy.
The Pampering Ends
After one last indulgent breakfast, we packed our bags and said goodbye to Portmeirion. The trip had been everything we’d hoped for: relaxing, indulgent, and set in beautiful surroundings with no chores or stress.
We’re sure we’ll return one day, though as we checked out, it was clear we’d need to book well in advance—most rooms were already reserved for next Christmas! We wouldn’t be too fussy about which room/house we stayed in though as part of the charm is the fact that they are all very unique. I’m not sure if we’ll go back next year, but we may well find somewhere similar for another Christmas experience as it was a very nice way to spend the Christmas break as a couple. I guess it’ll depend somewhat on Morgan’s plans
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Looks and sounds beautiful . Glad you both enjoyed it . What a well turned out couple. Was that a passmina that Anna was wearing ?