Completing the Affric Kintail Way
Day 3 Loch Affric – Morvich
Vital Stats
Affric Kintail Way Day 2
- Distance: 16.40 miles
- Elevation Gain Today: 448 m
- Highest Elevation: 350 m
- Total Time: 5:50:37
- Moving Time: 5:01:06
- Av. Pace: 21:22 mins/mile
- Moving Pace: 18:22 mins/mile
I slept OK in my tent again, though it took a while to drift off and I was awake relatively early. The tent was almost dry, apart from a light spattering of raindrops on the outer fly, which were easy to wipe off. So I decided I may as well have breakfast (porridge with milk and sugar, of course), pack up, and get moving.
There was a third tent on the beach now, so I packed up and left, before anyone else had stirred, this time with a completely dry tent. I found a drier route back to the trail than I’d taken the previous evening and set off alongside the river. A herd of deer grazed on the wide, flat, boggy floodplains surrounding the meanders.
Plans for the Day
Today I would pass the Alltbeithe Youth Hostel (the most remote hostel in the UK), the Camban Bothy, and the Glenlicht Bothy, all of which were potential camping options. However, I’d worked out that I only had around 16 miles left to complete the trail.
Kat had mentioned that buses were few and far between at the far end, specifically something around “2-something” and then not again until 7 pm. I hadn’t paid close enough attention to the exact times, but figured that if I kept up a decent pace, even over the rougher terrain ahead, I might just make it in time for the 2 pm bus. In my head, the plan was already forming: catch the earlier bus, get to either Fort William or Inverness by around 5-ish, then on to Glasgow in time for the overnight bus to Birmingham. If everything lined up, I could finish the trail and be back in Birmingham the following morning in time for the first train to Aberystwyth.
With that in mind, there was no way I was stopping to camp again. The remaining 16 miles were getting done today.
The wide forest tracks soon gave way to rougher, rockier paths with the occasional river crossing, but progress was still good. The skies were mostly grey, with patches of sunshine lighting up the rich browns and greens of the hillsides and the snow-dusted peaks beyond.
The scenery just kept getting better.
Youth Hostels and Bothies in Glen Affric
I reached the youth hostel in good time—its bright green walls visible from quite a distance. A number of people who had stayed there or camped nearby were just setting off as I arrived. I didn’t stop, instead pushing on along a narrower footpath that quickly became boggy. Dry feet were now a thing of the past. I still tried to avoid the worst of it, hopping between rocks and darting from side to side to avoid sinking into knee-deep bog. There were also plenty of small stream and river crossings, requiring a bit of balance and the occasional bit of improvisation.
I overtook a couple of groups who had left the hostel earlier and continued to make good progress over the more technical terrain. Aside from spectacular waterfalls, sweeping views, and a path perched high above the river, the next notable point was Camban Bothy. The door was open as I approached, and the smell of a recent wood fire lingered, but there was no one there. Whoever had stayed the night had already moved on.
From there, I climbed to the brow of the hill before beginning a steep, rocky descent towards the Glenlicht Bothy. I started noticing wet footprints on the rocks—someone was just ahead. With the sun now out, they couldn’t be far in front.
After a brief stop for photos and water, I caught up with a group of three lads at the bothy. This one is privately owned by the University of Edinburgh Mountaineering Society. From here, the path improved again into a wide gravel track, allowing me to pick up the pace and pull away once more. This section was still beautiful, a winding river cutting through bright green pasture, sheep grazing beneath steep-sided mountains. However, after the majesty of Glen Affric, it somehow felt like more of the same, just slightly less dramatic.
Highlander!
Rounding a corner, I was met with something completely unexpected. Jeeps, 4x4s, lorries, diggers—people everywhere.
A huge, double-lane makeshift road of metal trackways snaked across the hillside towards an imposing structure under construction. A temporary bridge spanned the river, and machinery was lifting what looked like an enormous stone fireplace—about the size of a family car—onto the back of a digger.
It all felt wildly out of place.
Curious, I asked what was going on. It turned out to be a film set for the upcoming Highlander movie. All of this infrastructure was to build a large hall on the hilltop, ready for filming—and apparently, it’s going to be burned down as part of a scene. Once filming is complete, everything—the hall, the road, the bridge—will be dismantled and removed.
It was a massive operation.
At Morvich, near the end of the trail, an entire temporary village had sprung up in a field to support it. There was a huge marquee, catering facilities, machinery, even a medical centre and ambulance—all to support what is essentially a film prop.
It’s hard to comprehend the scale of it. A rumoured $180 million budget suddenly makes more sense. Humans are a strange species—this level of effort and resource for something that might only appear on screen for a few minutes.
Remote Logistics from Anna
Leaving the chaos behind and dodging more lorries delivering sections of road, I noticed I finally had mobile reception. I sent a message to Anna, my RLST (Remote Logistics Support Team), to see what she could find out about buses and whether making it back to Glasgow that evening was realistic.
It seemed like it might be. Game on.
I pushed on, finishing the trail and adding a little extra to reach the main road. Another successful and highly enjoyable 16-mile day, and at a decent pace given the terrain. I still felt good too. With some time before the 2:33 pm bus, I stopped at the Pit Stop Café in Allt a’ Chruinn for a haggis toastie, cake, and a cup of tea.
The Journey Home
I actually had options. The 2:33 pm bus went to Inverness, from where I could connect to Glasgow. Alternatively, there was a 4:16 pm bus direct to Glasgow via Fort William. Both would get me there in time for the overnight bus, but the Inverness route was £10 cheaper, arrived earlier, and—crucially—left two hours sooner.
No need to sit around eating cake for two extra hours. Decision made.
I paid, sat out on the grass in the sunshine, and watched more lorries rumble past. I got chatting to a Belgian guy who had also just finished the Affric Kintail Way while we waited.
The bus arrived a little late, but soon I was on a scenic two-hour journey back through the Highlands, along Loch Ness and into Inverness. From there, the journey home unfolded in reverse: five hours to Glasgow, six hours overnight to Birmingham, then a train to Borth and a final two-mile walk along the beach home.
Phew. I’d made it—and what a mini-adventure it had been.
I still had loads of food left, so I definitely overpacked. I hadn’t used my waterproofs, and barely used half the kit I’d carried. As usual, I didn’t need the trowel, bidet, or hand sanitiser that make up my toilet kit. Somehow, I just never seem to need it on the trail. Still, along with emergency gear, first aid, paracetamol, ibuprofen, repair kits, and everything else, it all comes along “just in case.” One day it might be useful… I’m sure.
So, what trail next? Any suggestions?
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I’m sure you’ll find another one to do !
Glad all went well
Really enjoyed reading your blogs ?… thank you for sharing.
I plan on doing this in a couple of weeks… following on from the Great Glen Way… I’m thinking if the weather is on my side … I may mill it and drag it out as long as possible ?… probably split your last day into two … see how it pans out.
Where’s next then?
I keep trying to take longer on these hikes, but can’t help myself – I don’t really know how to do fewer miles each day.
Next is a bit more of the Raad ny Foillan on the Isle of Man and a coast to coast traverse of Costa Rica (bike & hike). But, as far as the next long distance path is concerned, I’m eyeing up the northern part of the Kungsleden Trail, might do the Cotswold Way (in luxury with my wife, so with proper accommodations) and have too much choice in Scotland, but will no doubt return soon. Maybe one towards the south of Scotland just to save on the travelling.
Al.
John o Groats trail. A bit boring until you reach Golspie but after that it becomes an exhilarating hike. Lots of wild camping possibilities too
I’ll take a look, but I might try to do some of the southern routes in Scotland just to cut down on the bus journeys!! I really should do ones closer to home as well, but wild camping isn’t so easy in Wales.