Norway Trip Part 1 – Bergen
Time for a few posts about our recent trip to Norway. It was a holiday with a number of objectives.
- A nice time away together for Anna and I
- Kayaking in the Fjords
- Wild Camping
- A journey on one of the most scenic railway routes in the world
- Two cities: Bergen and Oslo
- Plenty of scenery
- Some culture
I think we ticked all of the boxes, so I’ll start at the beginning with a nice relaxed drive to Manchester.
Getting to Norway
The original plan was to drive up early, stop somewhere nearby to charge the car, then drop the car off at the airport parking and do the usual airport malarkey. However, it was clear on the way up that there would be no need to charge the car as we’d arrive with close to 70% charge remaining. We would have plenty to get to Manchester and back without a charge. We were therefore at the airport even earlier than we usually would be. Not a bad thing as it meant a very chilled start to the holiday.
The flight with Scandinavian Airlines was pretty much on time and only took 1hr 45 to get to Bergen. Our luggage was there waiting for us and we were soon outside at a tram station in Norway working out how to buy a ticket to go a few stops toward the centre of Bergen. We soon worked it out, had the necessary apps and tickets and jumped on the next tram.
We did contemplate walking as it was only about a 30-minute walk to the hotel, but it was also midnight, we had two heavy rucksacks each and we’d been travelling all day so the tram was the easier option. It also meant that we’d know what we doing for the tram ride into the city centre the following day.
Scandic Kolstad
Despite being midnight we were now in Norway, the land of the midnight sun! The sun had set, but only just and there was plenty of light to find our way to the hotel. As we got off the tram we did meet our first problem though. The stairs out of the tram station down to the road level were made from metal mesh that Anna could see through. Anna doesn’t like heights and certainly not when she can see through to the ground beneath her feet! She made it with a little bit of encouragement and we were soon checked into our comfy room at the Scandic Kolstad Hotel.
We’d picked this hotel as it was close to the airport and not too expensive. Norway isn’t cheap for anything so most of our hotels were at the lower end of the price range, but we hadn’t gone full-on budget so still had all the comforts. We even had a little kitchenette behind some cupboard doors which seems to be the norm in most rooms. Standards are pretty high in Norway though, so even their more budget options are pretty good by most standards. We didn’t have anything of a view from the window but that didn’t matter as we’d only be sleeping here.
Breakfast the following morning was as good as it gets. All the usuals that you’d expect from a buffet breakfast and a few local delicacies too such as a brown sweet cheese and Norwegian Patè. Mmmm mmmm, time to stock up for the day.
Into Bergen
Suitably stuffed with breakfast it was back onto the tram for a pleasant 40-minute trip into Bergen. This might be a commuter route for many but for us, it was a chance to see various parts of a new city. Everything was very clean, there was plenty of interesting scenery along the way and the whole vibe seemed to be one of calmness rather than the usual hectic city feel. The trams were efficient and on time too.
We got off at the end of the line right in the middle of the city and headed towards the waterfront where there was more of a festival vibe.
We’re not 100% sure what was going on but it was some sort of traditional boating festival. The waters were packed full of traditional boats, the quayside had stalls selling local products and there were people wearing traditional Norwegian costumes everywhere. It was lively but with a party atmosphere and music from accordions all over the place. We wandered around, headed over to the famous waterside houses, and perused the many shops selling artwork, tourist paraphernalia and of course plenty of tourist tat. The alleys between the houses were pleasant and provided some shade from what was already a very warm day.
Fløibanen Funicular Railway
We then decided to head up on the Fløibanen funicular railway. This is one of Norway’s best-known and most visited attractions. The journey up to Fløyen (320 m above sea level) takes about 5–8 minutes and provides amazing views down to the City. When we got there we were surprised to see huge queues. We think a cruise ship had recently docked and groups of tourists from it had flocked to the Funicular Railway. We thought twice about joining the queue. As we contemplated our next move noticed a sign that said “pre-booked tickets this way” with an arrow that pointed to a deserted entrance into the Fløibanen station. We checked it out online, pre-booked some tickets and jumped straight to the front of the queue where we boarded the funicular railway.
It was busy once on it and I did comment on the fact that it was a little like the cliff railway in Aberystwyth. We were soon racing up the side of the hill above Bergen.
The views from the top were indeed spectacular with the whole of Bergen laid out below us, including the giant cruise ships in the dock. We joined the throngs of people for the obligatory photos from the viewpoint. It was scorching up here now so rather than brave the crowds looking through the shops at over-priced tourist tat we wandered off into the forests for a stroll in the shade.
We headed out to a little lake, passing some goats as we went. At Skomakerdiket lake we sat in the shade for a while and watched the world go by.
A slightly odd couple arrived nearby and spent a while quietly arguing with each other. It wasn’t so much of an argument as the man barely said a word. Instead, he was rudely directed to take photos in specific ways by the girl who stood there posing and then moaning about the results. At one point he must have put her jumper on the floor so that he could get into the exact position she directed. This was probably one of the biggest mistakes he made as now her jumper had various bits of vegetation stuck to it so she spent the next 10 minutes showing him every single minuscule speck on the jumper and making him pick them off one by one!
We left them to it and wandered around the lake and then up a steep, root and rock infested track through the forest to another path at the top. It was boiling hot in the sun by now so rather than continue up into the hills we headed back towards the viewpoint for a trip back down the hill on the funicular railway.
Bergen Aquarium
After exploring the town centre a little and listening in on a silver band we decided to visit the aquarium. Lots of people seemed to be getting around on electric scooters so we thought we’d give them a go. We couldn’t quite work out the app and the scooters themselves though so gave up and decided to walk along the waterfront instead. Probably a good idea as once we were away from the pedestrianised areas of the city centre were had a few roads to negotiate and I’m not sure we would have been that safe onboard a scooter each!
Along the dockside the place was packed with swimsuit-clad people all sun-bathing and swimming in the sea. The waters certainly looked very inviting as Anna and I were now beginning to flag under the afternoon sun. Who’d have thought Norway would be too hot!!
We found the aquarium and had a relaxed hour or so watching the penguins, seals and otters and then wandering around the various fish aquariums and reptile vivarium. We were both pretty tired by now and had sore feet too so we headed back out to the end of the peninsula and had a little snooze on the grass amongst the other people relaxing on the water’s edge. We watched boats of all shapes and sizes come and go, people were swimming and there was even the odd seaplane taking off from the water and heading off somewhere.
Suitably rested we walked back into the City Centre to find some dinner at a nice burger bar. The ‘Arnold Palmer’ iced tea was just the refreshing drink that I needed. In need of a proper rest and having ‘done’ Bergen it was back on the tram for another night and another breakfast at the Scandic Solstad Hotel before starting part of the main event of the holiday tomorrow…
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Sounds amazing so far!
Well done to Anna managing the mesh stairs ad I know how she feels about that x
Eagerly waiting for part two