Sea Kayaking in Sardinia – Day 1

by Alan Cole · Published Wednesday, April 20th, 2022 · Updated Thursday, April 21st, 2022

Having travelled across the UK on Monday, across Europe on Tuesday and across Sardinia on Wednesday, Thursday was finally the day to get back on the water. I hadn’t been on the sea since my heart attack last June so doing so in the not-freezing waters of Sardinia was the perfect way to do so.

After a hearty breakfast with the others in our group at Agave Agriturismo we waited for Clark to arrive. He was soon there with a mini-bus, a trailer full of sea kayaks and an Italian geologist called Gionvanni as his helper. We climbed aboard the mini-bus and had a very short journey to the beach at Fertilia. The beach we started at was Punta Negra

Here we were assigned kayaks and paddles, given buoyancy aids, dry bags and water shoes where needed and then had a very short briefing on the beach.

It was quite nice not to have to go through loads of briefing and safety details which is often the case with such things. Although I don’t think that Clark even asked us if we could swim or told anyone what to do if they needed help. That didn’t matter as I think most of us knew what we were doing and I knew that Anna and I could swim and that we would be fine!

Sea Kayaks

Most of the kit was brand new by the looks of it. I had a Boréal Design Inukshuk kayak which was quite a bit less stable than the others. The others had P&H kayaks which were a little more stable I think and there was a Double Kayak that the girls from Yorkshire started out in for maximum stability. Vicky’s kayak was a little different as it had an adjustable skeg rather than a foot-controlled rudder. After a quick paddle around the bay we all looked comfortable.

Weather-wise it looked OK. It wasn’t cold but it wasn’t that warm either. There was a bit of an ENE wind but we were sheltered from it here in the bay. It was a little cloudy and grey. The plan for the day was to head towards the headland and then paddle under the cliffs before returning to the beach. I was a little surprised that we started off with the winds on our backs as I generally try to paddle into the wind to start with but not knowing the local area or conditions didn’t really know what to expect.

Paddling to the Headland

We paddled to the first little headland. It was easy going and with the wind on our backs we made good progress. There was a WW2 bunker on this little headland and we chatted on the way there getting to know everyone.

From here we could see a tower on the next headland so after a little regroup we paddled across the next bay to this headland. The wind was picking up all the time now and there were a few small runners to catch as we headed downwind. I was a lot faster than everyone else so generally arrived at each stop first and often paddled a little circle to back-track to the others. The little runners off the point were good fun so I played a little on these and was getting Giovanni to try catching them too. He was a surfer as well as a geologist but hadn’t actually done much kayaking himself so most of this was quite new to him as well.

Around the headland the wind was a little stronger and now right on our backs. After the cliffs and the bay of Cala di Porto Agra there were a couple of big marker buoys that marked a sea conservation area so we had to paddle seaward of these. Anna was dropping back a little from the others by now so I dropped back to stay closer to her. The wind was picking up all the time and I was beginning to think that it might be a bit of a struggle for some of the others to paddle back against it. It wouldn’t be far to continue downwind to the next bay if that was the case though so I assumed Clark would have a plan B if that were needed.

Into the wind

Clark had noticed that the wind was picking up too so sensibly told us all to turn around. I kept an eye on Anna and everyone else as they did so as the chop was picking up along with the wind. Everyone managed to turn around OK but Anna’s hat blew off as she did so. I went back ready to get it for her but Anna did a little circle herself and retrieved it on her own.

By the time she had done this she was now at the back of the group. Once she started heading into the wind it was clear that it was hard work for her. So, rather than paddle off with the others I stayed with her to make sure she was OK. With Anna finding it hard and with the headwind increasing she was only just making headway so I stayed closer than usual and tried to encourage her just to keep paddling. I obviously didn’t have any rescue kit with me in the form of a tow rope so that was all I could do. I also didn’t want to tell her to keep paddling too many times as I was aware that she wasn’t too happy about the situation. Telling her to just paddle harder would likely get my head bitten off and wouldn’t actually help. So most of the time I just stayed close and patient. She was tired and needed to rest but if and when she did, if only for a few seconds, she would lose all of the ground she had made in the last few minutes.

The others had made it back towards the relative shelter of the little headland and were now quite a way ahead. Clark was in between them and us. Everytime we got a little closer though he would paddle off. Anna was doing well and was making progress but really she wanted some help. I wasn’t worried about our safety as I had plenty of get out plans if that became the case but I was worried that Anna wasn’t enjoying things and this was the first day of our holiday.

Eventually Clark did come back to us and after a little chat we convinced him that the best thing to do was for him to tow Anna back out of the wind. Anna was quite relieved. Once she had the tow rope on she was once again making some progress against the wind. I stayed back at their slow pace though just to stay with her. Apparently the others had all been struggling against the wind somewhat as well.

Once we were back around the headland and out of the worst of the wind we headed to the beach of Spiaggia del Lazzaretto. Anna could probably have paddled this herself but she was better off being towed and having as much rest as she could ready for the afternoon of paddling. Unfortunately as Clark was untieing the tow rope Anna managed to capsize and went for a bit of a swim! The water was chilly but not too bad, but the climb back in with Clark helping her did mean she ended up with a few bruises! She was OK though and not too bothered by the capsize.

Lunch

We had lunch on the beach.

Clark had brought sandwiches, crisps to share, fizzy orange drink and oranges. Unfortunately all of the sandwiches had loads of tomato in them so there wasn’t really much for Anna. This wasn’t going to help matters but we had the foresight to pack some snacks into our dry bags ourselves just in case so they came to good use.

We also had extra dry layers and a towel so that we could get Anna warmed back up and ready to paddle again.

Over lunch I suggested that Anna and I get into the double kayak and Jacqui and the other Anna have our single kayaks for the paddle home. This would mean that Anna could feel a little more comfortable and of needed I’d be able to keep up paddling the double kayak on my own if Anna just wanted to sit there and not do too much.

After a bit of chilling on the beach that’s what we did.

Weirdly, whilst having lunch some people walking on the beach decided to have a bit of a photo shoot with our kayaks. A girl decided to sprawl all over them pouting exaggeratedly for the camera – some people are odd!

Paddling Home

The paddle back to Punta Negra Beach was a relatively chilled affair. Anna did indeed have a nice relaxed paddle back and sometimes sat there not paddling at all if that’s what she wanted. I was quite happy paddling the double kayak too. I don’t think Jacqui was to keen on the single kayak I had been in earlier though as it was just too unstable for her. It was quite clear later in the day over dinner that she didn’t want to get into it again!!

We all made it back to Punta Negra unscathed and Anna was feeling a little happier having had an easier afternoon too, and the sun had come out a little as well.

After a packing up Clark drove us to a bar in Fertilia where we had beers all round and more of a chat. Actually, Hannah had an Apple Sprizter, but everyone else had beers.

Back at the Agriturismo there was plenty of time for a shower, some chilling and a stroll before another delicious dinner. There was of course plenty of wine on flow and a plenty to chat about as we all got to know each other a little better.

Plans are Afoot

The fact that Jacqui didn’t want ‘my’ tippy kayak meant that we decided amongst ourselves that tomorrow we would try putting the two Anna’s into the double kayak, I would have the tippy boat and Jacqui could have a more stable single. Obviously if that didn’t work we would reassess but it seemed like a good plan. Vicky didn’t really get on with the adjustable skeg on her boat so decided that she would swap with Giovanni and have one with a rudder instead.

If the Anna’s were comfortable in the double that would be perfect. With two of them paddling it should be quicker than a single, but as the rest of us were a little stronger than them it should balance out perfectly. Jacqui wouldn’t have to feel as though she was tense and about to fall out all the time. I was happy to be back in the tippier boat that I started in and just wanted to chill and take things easy seeing as I didn’t want to put in too much effort anyway. Vicky would get to try a boat with a rudder which would be good for her as she wants to try different boats ready for her trip to Greenland. Claire and Hannah were happy with the boats they had been in and looked good the whole way so would stick with that. Hopefully everyone would be happy and comfortable.

Day 1 had been a success, even if Anna had struggled a little once heading back into the wind and we now had plans afoot to make sure that didn’t happen again.