West Highland Way Day 3: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
The morning dawned dry with a light breeze. It wasn’t dry-dry as there was definitely some greyness to the day but it wasn’t raining at least. The guy in a huge tent next to me was sat outside panning for gold in the river. I had breakfast then dried my tent off with a towel and packed it up dryish. My socks were almost dry as well which was nice but my shoes were still wet through and my feet were in tatters. I’d taped them up the night before so hoped that would help.
I set off with my backpack on and headed into Tyndrum up the main road to the Green Welly Shop to buy some supplies. I then retraced my steps to the campsite and headed back onto the West Highland Way. Of course, no more than a hundred yards up the path I found places to wild camp, another bunkhouse and campsite and a whole host of accommodation options. It’s always the way. Oh well, I may have spent more than I needed to last night but I was tired when I got there so had to take the first option I found.
The path took me around the back of Tyndrum through a river crossing (so much for dry socks!) and then emerged back at the Green Welly Shop!! I’d just walked in a circle and had done 1.5 miles already today without really going anywhere.
To Inveroran Hotel
Next was a gradual climb, overtaking a few people as I went. The sun even came out for a while. At least it looks as though it did in the photos but I don’t really remember it. I guess it was still early in the day and quite cold.
The path then dropped down into the valley and the rain started. It was soon raining properly and pretty cold too. I had an extra layer on my legs and top today and my gloves were already on along with the waterproofs. Snow-capped mountains surrounded me and the going along the Military Road was good. There were more nice camping spots alongside Allt Kinglass.
The Bridge of Orchy soon arrived. The little camping spot by the bridge over the River Orchy had a solitary tent on it.
From here there was a steep climb up a hill, over the top where it was particularly chilly. This was followed by a descent into the next valley and the Inveroran hotel.
Rannoch Moor
I continued on a short distance to Victoria Bridge. The rain had stopped briefly, and this was a spot that I had earmarked for a wild camp so I stopped, sat down, ate a sandwich that I had bought in Tyndrum and had a look at the map. I didn’t stop long as a ferocious hailstorm hit so rather than just sit there I got up and continued on. It was too early in the day to stop even if this was a lovely looking camp site.
The next stage was along an ancient road and up a never ending climb. The sharp stones of the road were a little uncomfortable on my feet and it felt like hard work at times. There were frequent showers and it went on and on. There were one or two nice looking campsites but it was pretty exposed and bleak up here. A couple of the bridges had potential spots to camp that were a little out of the wind. However, I’d now decided to make it all the way to Kingshouse today.
I overtook a few people towards the top of climb. They had started at Inveroran and were going to Kingshouse too.
Kingshouse soon came into view on the descent but it was a surprisingly long time until I actually arrived. I was wet, it was pouring with rain and there was a cold wind was howling up the valley. A hot chocolate and scone helped somewhat and I was able to recharge not only myself but also my battery pack. The bunkhouse, at £44 for a night or £54 with breakfast was a very serious consideration as I sat there looking out the window.
In the end though I plumped for wild camping behind the hotel and thought I’d treat myself to a burger in the restaurant as a reward. My tent was soon up, right next to the river but it was still raining heavily.
I had only covered 20 miles today but the weather tand the road surface had made it feel quite tough.
I dried out as best I could then headed to the hotel. They had a bar as well as the restaurant so I went there as I felt a little too smelly and scruffily dressed for the restaurant.
The venison burger and a beer went down a treat and I managed to dry my shoes in front of the fire. There was a red deer in the car park, obviously it had come to seek its revenge for the venison burger! Back at the tent I did some foot admin, tried without success to sew up a hole in my gloves – I couldn’t even thread the needle.
I then settled fine for the night as the temperatures dropped close to freezing. From here I might be able to make it all the way to Fort William and the end of the West Highland Way tomorrow.
