Island Hopping in the Phillpines – Days 8 & 9 – Coron

by Alan Cole · Published Sunday, January 4th, 2026 · Updated Sunday, January 4th, 2026

Christmas Days and Karst Adventures in Coron

Merry Christmas!

It was Christmas Day, and we were in the Philippines, staying at the very plush Bacau Bay Hotel in Coron, on the island of Busuanga. The staff wore Santa hats, Christmas carols played softly in the background, and the grounds and restaurants were strung with festive lights. Everyone we met smiled and wished us “Merry Christmas.” I’d even brought a couple of secret little gifts for Anna to unwrap.

And yet… it didn’t feel like Christmas at all.

It was 30°C, sunny, and very humid. I was still feeling a little ropey, so I kept breakfast small and we spent the day doing very little — exactly what was needed after a week of constant travelling. We sat in the shade around the hotel grounds, sipping mocktails and relaxing. It was calm, quiet, and restorative. I skipped lunch entirely as my digestive system still wasn’t playing ball.

Later, we strolled along the dock where we spotted crabs, fish, and a heron of some description. Anna also picked out a monitor lizard in the undergrowth, and we both enjoyed watching a brilliantly colourful oriole flitting through the trees. Otherwise, we kept ourselves to ourselves and embraced the slow pace.

Mount Tapyas at Sunset

That evening, I met up with the rest of the group for a ride into Coron town and a walk up the 720-odd steps of Mount Tapyas to watch the sunset — along with what felt like a million other people. The steps were packed: some people struggling, most taking it steady, and one or two (myself included) quietly putting in a bit of effort.

I reached the top first from our group, though the sunset itself turned out to be a little underwhelming. As I hadn’t really socialised much during the trip — illness had put paid to that — I found a quieter spot just below the summit and watched the world go by alone for a while before heading back down and returning to the hotel.

There was no big Christmas dinner celebration for us. Instead, Anna and I shared a pizza and a cocktail in one of the hotel bars. Very civilised — and probably the lowest-calorie Christmas Day I’ve ever had.

Exploring the Karst Scenery of Coron Bay

Boxing Day found us back on the water, this time aboard a modern, fibreglass bangka boat departing from the very busy Coron dock. Our first stop was a snorkel over a shipwreck. Our guide was particularly attentive — initially panicking when I dove down into the wreck and trying (unsuccessfully) to follow. He soon realised I was reasonably competent in the water and relaxed a bit.

He then encouraged Anna to try some duck-diving. His first attempt at being supportive failed spectacularly as he dissolved into uncontrollable laughter at her initial effort, which got her precisely nowhere. Between laughs, he said something about a whale — Anna thinks he meant she needed to be more whale-like; I suspect he may just have insulted her outright.

With a few tips from both of us, her second attempt was much better, and once underwater her stripy rash vest blended in beautifully with the fish.

Not long after, we discovered our boat had broken down — which turned out to be a bonus. We spent half an hour drifting in the sunshine, jumping and diving off the boat while others lounged on deck. Rey, our guide, caught up on some admin, and everyone relaxed.

Eventually, a smaller, more traditional wooden bangka arrived and we transferred across, continuing on to our next stop.

Lagoons, Lakes, and Lunch

We cruised along beneath Coron Island’s dramatic karst scenery: towering limestone cliffs undercut by the sea, precarious rocks balanced on narrow pedestals, and razor-sharp ridges crowning the skyline. Every headland seemed to reveal another hidden cove, lagoon, or beach.

At one stop, we joined the crowds swimming through a narrow cave into a vast lagoon enclosed by cliffs. It was fun, but our earlier delays meant it had become busier than we’d have liked.

From there, we headed to a quieter inlet and walked through the jungle to a viewpoint before descending to a lake.

We were told to wear lifejackets — this was a brackish and freshwater lake, and there had been fatalities in recent years where people underestimated how different buoyancy feels compared to the sea. We were under strict instructione not to dive down under the water.

Despite this, our guide quietly took me aside and pointed out the entrance to a cave about eight feet underwater. He dived down, swam through, and popped up on the other side — then encouraged me to follow. Naturally, I couldn’t resist, despite Anna’s distinctly disapproving expression. I dived down, passed through the cave, and surfaced successfully. No one else attempted it, and I suspect the guide wasn’t about to let them either.

Soon after, the crowds melted away and we had a brief moment of calm and stillness in the lake before heading back to the boat.

Lunch was served at Calachuchi Beach, where fallen flowers from the trees scattered the sand beneath a reed-roofed shelter. Once again, I ate very little — a spoonful of rice and a single chicken drumstick. I’d planned on a banana too, but by the time I went back for one they had all been claimed and stashed away for later by the rest of our group.

Some of us explored the “spider’s web” and high-ropes course above the beach — not especially thrilling — before spending time paddleboarding, snorkelling, and relaxing. Sadly, there was quite a lot of plastic and rubbish in the water, which took the edge off an otherwise beautiful spot.

Hot Springs

With the day slipping away, we headed back to a hot and humid Busuanga Island, disembarked on the dockside and then had a bumpy ride to some hot springs on the other side of the town. It was nice here with various pools of water ranging from 35ºC to 40+ºC. Everyone got in for a bit of a dip, but somehow, when the air temperature is 30ºC, hot springs aren’t really needed – they make much more sense when surrounded by snowy landscapes rather than sweltering jungle! I didn’t get in. just dipped my toes because hot water and my blood pressure medications don’t mix well. After a week of feeling ill and not eating, the last thing I needed was to pass out in a hot spring in the middle of a jungle!

Farewell Dinner

And just like that, it was time to head back to the hotel. That evening, we gathered for a farewell meal in town. After barely eating properly for a week, I was starting to feel genuinely hungry. We ordered enthusiastically — though only half the food arrived initially.

In truth, that was enough. By the time the rest appeared, we couldn’t face it. Anna and I ended up slightly isolated at our table and I was sat on my own, shouting to be heard over the noise and music — a sure sign that we’re getting old.

We headed back to the hotel to pack for an early start the next morning. As you’ll discover in the next instalment — covering our epic journey home — it was probably just as well I hadn’t eaten too much once again. Philippine food, it seems, was not quite finished with my digestive system.

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Mum x says:

Sunday, January 4th, 2026 at 2:03 pm

Some lovely photos and memories though, despite you not feeling well it sounds as if you managed lots of the activities even though you didn’t manage much of the food

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